Fiat Dino Forum (FDF)

Hi guys,

my clutch needs replacement very soon, so I was wondering what's the least painful way to remove the gearbox.
Can you remove it separately or is it better to remove it as a complete unit together with the engine?

Any suggestions or recommendations?

Thank you
Best Regards
Bijan

Bijan, on a car lift and with adequate tools, it takes about 2.5 hours to get the gear box out of the car. The engine remains in the car. Some tricks to know are
- that you need a 14mm ring spanner with a very thin ring to unscrew the 4 screws fixing the rear end of the cardan shaft with the end shaft,
- that you have to take away the upper end of the gear lever shaft (what is a very annoying job).
- that you need a very long extension to unscrew the 6 bolts which fasten gear box and engine.
I would always change the large oil seal (Simmerring) at the end of the crank shaft and the small ball bearing in the crank shaft (Pilotlager) at the same time.
It is also recommended to change the clutch release bearing. I still have some original SKF on stock. Original, no repro as being offered. If you need one, let me know.

Have fun
Georg

Hi Georg,

thanks a lot for the very helpful advice! 2.5 hours actually sounds less painful as I am used to when I work on the Dino
I'll give it a try over Easter. Of course I am interested in buying one of the SKF release bearings from you, let's handle this
together with the door stoppers.

Cheers
Bijan

I did this a few times: once to replace the spigot bearing, then again for rebuilding it, and then for doing what the shop did not do: carefully check the longitudinal play on the main and lay shafts. It can be done with 4 axle stands in half a day (2-3 hrs with practice):
-drain oil and disconnect the battery
-remove top of center console between seats to expose shift lever. Use ring pliers to remove inner ring holding the stick shift to gearbox. pull it up and out and in a bag since it's full of grease.
-below the car, disconnect the clutch cable, undo rubber coupler and U-joint near differential. Remove cross-bar and drop drive-shaft (not strictly necessary, but greatly in the way otherwise). BE SURE TO MARK THE POSITION OF THE DRIVESHAFT WITH RESPECT TO THE DIFFERENTIAL!! IT IS BALANCED AND CAN VIBRATE IF PUT BACK WRONG
-unbolt rear of transmission, it will drop slightly. You need to get your hands on top of the bell housing to catch the bolts that are up there. For that, you will need 80cm of extensions to your ratchet. To help, you can lift the front of the engine a little. It helps if you have some play where the exhaust headers' 3-in-1 joins the tube (if you loosen them a little).
-Unbolt the top two bolts, they are the most difficult to reach. Then, remove the starter and place it on the engine mount. You did disconnect the battery, right?
-remove the rest of the bolts on the bell housing. The transmission is still stuck to the car, it needs some coaxing back and forth to come loose.

I made a small tranny jack by welding a used car jack onto 4 wheels. It's great help to move the transmission out of the engine and it helps putting it back in. I did it once without, and it's doable with lots of grunting. Getting it back in is actually fairly easy since you now know where the bots are. It's tight to align it and you do not want to damage the new spigot bearing that you just put in.

Good luck,
Dario

Hi Dario,

thank you very much for the comprehensive guide, I think
this answers all my questions for now. I come back to you guys
if I am struggling with something

Cheers
Bijan

Hi Bijan,

did you complete your clutch-replacement job?

Just wondering what pressure plate you used? A new one or kept the old one?

Thanks

-Richard