Hi Andrew,
I just tried about 15 times to get a good picture of this ground stud, total failure, the ones I have would only confuse you.
It's sort of "on top of" the hinge bracket - run your finger around the bend of the hinge part that's on the lid, then jump across to the body's bracket - and the stud is right on top of that - completely impossible to get to (or undo) because the bodywork folds around it. In fact the only way in I could see would be through the left side wing vent - here's a picture of where the stud is - right inside behind there.
Different vents on your 2000 car I think but you get the idea.
Your method to make contact with the window silvering sounds really good - I'm going to try that, but I think the glass would have to be out to do it, and I'll wait until it comes time to paint the car first.
cheers,
-Richard
Blue Sera 2000 Coupe Adventure
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Re: Blue Sera 2000 Coupe Adventure
Thank You Richard. We'll, I've had the rear window in (and out) 3 times. The 4th attempt looks pretty good.
I disregarded good sense and the final removal was to install the Stainless Decor BEFORE installation. I disregarded what I knew of Alfas which was foolish. Installing the Stainless First is the only way.
I replaced the automotive window wire by recycling the old ultra flexible wire and yes this needs the window out. I feel the only way is ultra flexible wire. This passes though a hole in the glass slot. When installing the window I left it sitting up at its bottom by inserting a block of 50 x 50 timber. This allowed me finger room to thread the cable downwards into the boot area. The rope used to pull the rubber over the lip needs to be on the interior side of the cable so it doesn't pull the cable out. Having threaded the cable I then refitted the rear panel liner over them. Then the usual rope pull trick to install the glass. Only job outstanding is to install 3M sealer undermeath the rubber all around now and to neaten the lining slightly.
I definitely don't have the Earth in the same place as you Richard, I do have a bracket for the boot light switch there and it's mounting screw is a similar position. My original cable had a ring terminal and was only about 250 mm long so I'll drill a hole in the right rear shelf to earth it using that. The feed is left side spade connector as I'd mentioned previously.
So rear window in at last! Next step is to grow some extra long fingers and fit the light switch and get the rear shelf fitted next. Then move on to the rear quarter light windows.
I disregarded good sense and the final removal was to install the Stainless Decor BEFORE installation. I disregarded what I knew of Alfas which was foolish. Installing the Stainless First is the only way.
I replaced the automotive window wire by recycling the old ultra flexible wire and yes this needs the window out. I feel the only way is ultra flexible wire. This passes though a hole in the glass slot. When installing the window I left it sitting up at its bottom by inserting a block of 50 x 50 timber. This allowed me finger room to thread the cable downwards into the boot area. The rope used to pull the rubber over the lip needs to be on the interior side of the cable so it doesn't pull the cable out. Having threaded the cable I then refitted the rear panel liner over them. Then the usual rope pull trick to install the glass. Only job outstanding is to install 3M sealer undermeath the rubber all around now and to neaten the lining slightly.
I definitely don't have the Earth in the same place as you Richard, I do have a bracket for the boot light switch there and it's mounting screw is a similar position. My original cable had a ring terminal and was only about 250 mm long so I'll drill a hole in the right rear shelf to earth it using that. The feed is left side spade connector as I'd mentioned previously.
So rear window in at last! Next step is to grow some extra long fingers and fit the light switch and get the rear shelf fitted next. Then move on to the rear quarter light windows.